Pokhara

Our plans to visit Annapurna Base Camp were scuppered by a nasty bug picked up somewhere after Jomsom. Marpha was nice, Larjung was better (we spent two nights and visited the Guru Rinpoche cave where a Tibetan family was having a ceremony to pray for all the goats killed that day for Dashain).

Ghasa was ok too, but on the way to Tatopani, Ciel started puking over the edge of the trail. As it was also the edge of a 100m cliff, I persuaded her to do the rest of her vomiting on the other side of the trail. We stopped at the next guesthouse, a quiet place in Pairothapla, for her to recuperate. The next morning, she felt a bit better, but I felt pretty nauseous, so we stayed another night.

After that, we walked (rather slowly) the rest of the way to Tatopani. That night, I felt pretty rotten again, so we checked out of the 50 rupee/night room and found a much more comfortable one for 500/night. I was pretty hungry after not eating all day, so I ordered veggie momos for dinner. Later that night, the intestinal cramps came back, with a vengeance...I woke Ciel up with my whimpering as I lay curled up in a ball wishing I could die quickly rather than in slow agony. The azithromycin we got for such occasions seemed to have no effect, so Ciel went out of the room to try to find someone to ask if there was a doctor in town, only to find the main hotel gate locked. We couldn't get out if we wanted to! Although if I really had been dying of appendicitis the way I felt I might have been, she would have yelled loud enough to wake the family that owns the hotel and gotten them to open the gate. Not that it would have helped - I would have had to wait until morning for a helicopter rescue anyway.

By morning I felt much better, but I had decided that Tatopani, despite the hot springs (tato means hot, pani is water in Nepali), was not the place to spend another night like that. We left first thing this morning on the bus, and despite seeing several Nepalis get off the bus to puke, I felt fine (perhaps the lack of stomach contents helped).

Now we're sitting in the much more upscale Butterfly lodge in Pokhara (I paid 300 rupees for a room here in 2001, now it's more like 3000 - though we opted for a cheapie at 1000). I hope the potato soup stays down (and in) tonight.

-mark.